May 9 - Little Bighorn

I woke up to a clear & frosty 28º morning, and headed down the road toward Judith Gap.  Not far out of town, there was a nice Short-eared Owl perched alongside the road.

Here's Looking at You

The eBird program noted that Sprague’s Pipits had been seen along Old Gap Road, southwest of Judith Gap, and I'd never before seen this species.  So, I pulled off the highway into several inches of snow from this morning's weather.

Long-billed Curlews waiting for the day to warm up

The white expanse was full of birds, and many of them came up to the edge of the fields and onto the road, where the snow and hoarfrost was beginning to melt.

Chestnut-collared Longspur

It's cold, but sunny.  Let's Sing!!

The Vesper Sparrows were also in a singing mood.

Many Horned Larks.  This one's taking a break from "larking"

McCown's Longspur

I drove slowly along the roads, searching for the Pipits, but none were seen.  Along Old Gap Road, the window was down (yes, it was cold) and I finally heard the distinctive Flight Song of the Sprague’s Pipit.  Try as I might, I could not see the bird (birds?) out across the snowy fields.  Just the Longspurs and Horned Larks.  I would prefer seeing a “Life Bird” rather than merely hearing it, but I’m not proud, and chalked up the Sprague’s Pipit as No. 601.

Horned Lark showing his horns

Since I was in that corner of America, I decided to drive through the Crow Agency to visit the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument.  I’d read the histories of the “Great Sioux War” for years, with John G. Neihardt’s book Black Elk Speaks being one of the earliest I can remember.  So, given the opportunity to walk the hills and see the site provided me with a clearer understanding of how the events transpired.  The National Park Service here does a great job of education and interpretation.

I began my visit by walking through the National Cemetery here.  This Cemetery was established by General William Tecumseh Sherman in 1879, who issued General Order No. 78 designating part of the Custer Battlefield as a national cemetery.

Those who know me are aware that I am a Freemason, and I was surprised to find one headstone here in the cemetery carved with the Square and Compasses.  The stone is that of First Sergeant James Brown.  Brown's gravestone has the Freemason symbol on it, indicating that he, like many other Buffalo Soldiers, was a member of a Prince Hall Masonic Lodge. One of the first black military masonic lodges was established near Fort Davis, Texas, in 1883 and was called the Baldwin Lodge, likely after Troop I's commander, Captain Theodore Baldwin. Since it was a military lodge, its location moved with the soldiers, and in 1887 Baldwin Lodge #16 was at Fort Verde, AZ, and in 1889 it moved to Fort Apache, AZ.  Brown held the military ranks of Sergeant and First Sergeant during his long military career, which was cut short when he froze to death between Havre and Fort Assinniboine, Montana.
Many of the headstones honor Unknown soldiers.

Others indicate that the soldiers passed due to the many accidents and diseases of the day.  These stones are among those that were translocated in 1905 from burials in the Dakota Territory:

Cpl. Francis Hubner Drowned in 1870

Cpl. Charles H. Raymond was struck by lightning in 1878

First Sgt. Aquilia Coonrad died while in charge of a Quartermaster’s Escort in 1884

He Was a Medal of Honor Recipient

Another stone honors Captain Wm. Logan, who was killed at Big Hole during the Army’s pursuit of the Nez Perce.

I walked out onto the Little Bighorn Battlefield itself, and down the “Deep Ravine” where a number of stones honor those Native Americans who fought to maintain their freedom and way of life.

Boston Custer was the youngest brother of the “famous” Lt. Col. George A. Custer.  The stone marks the approximate location where he fell, as his remains were re-interred to Michigan.

Most of the markers merely state “US Soldier 7th Cavalry”, as their remains were buried together in the mass grave atop the hill.

Beyond “Custer’s Last Stand”, the Monument includes a section of the route that Major Marcus Reno’s troops engaged the Lakota and Cheyenne.
From several of the pullouts, one can see the “Greasy Grass” valley, and imagine how it must have looked with a city of 10,000 people on that June morning.

Walking and driving across this prairie made the stories I’ve read come to life.  It is somewhat emotional for me to visit a place where so many people died, although something inside me ‘needed’ to come here.
I left the Monument and continued driving as far as Broadus, Montana this afternoon, checking into the Sagebrush Inn for $80.  Not too bad a place.  I went over to the Powder River Stockman's Club for supper, having a hamburger steak and 2 pints of beer for $19.75.

Sand Lily - Leucocrinum montanum

Short-eared Owl eBird Checklist is Here

Oka Road eBird Checklist is Here

Old Gap Road first eBird Checklist is Here

Old Gap Road second eBird Checklist is Here

Little Bighorn Battlefield Natl Monument eBird Checklist is Here

Reno’s Battle at Little Bighorn eBird Checklist is Here