Tuesday, May 7, 2019

April 22 - Natural Bridges National Monument


I packed and ate breakfast at the Kayenta Monument Valley Inn’s restaurant.  These people make good coffee here - robust and flavourful.  I saw that the General Manager of the Inn was at the front desk, so - when she had a break from the rest of the travelers checking out - I engaged her with my dilemma.  I introduced myself to Ms. Lavina Smith, and explained how I had thought I’d made a reservation for last night, only to find out that “Cancelon”, a “third-party” outfit had my reservation for the 25th.  She said that, until “Cancelon” contacted her Inn, she could do nothing, but would do what she could to “make it right” when the reservation for next Thursday was posted.  I was very impressed with Ms. Smith’s professionalism and assistance.

I was interested in adding to my “Life List” of birds by finding the Lucy’s Warbler.  This is a common bird in the Southwest, but I’d never been in the area when the species was here.  I figured that I’d go up into the Escalante National Monument to find it.  This is the most remote real estate in the lower 48, and was protected by proclamation by President Bill Clinton in 1996.  In 2017, our current Executive exceeded his Constitutional authority, as is his wont, and reduced the Monument area by nearly half!  Thank Goodness, environmental groups Brought Suit.

Leaving Kayenta, I drove north, and was intrigued by the small octagonal houses that seem to be built in the yards of almost every home in the Navajo Nation.

These appear to be the modern Hogans, which were the traditional sacred home for the Diné people who practice traditional religion.  Every family, even if they live most of the time in a newer home, has the traditional hogan for ceremonies, and to keep themselves in balance.

Hooghan baah hashne’ dooleeł                                    
Ha’ahaahdéé’ yah ajighááh. Ákwe’é nitsáhákees silá.
Shádi’ááhjigo dashdiighááh. Ákwe’é nahat’á silá.
Áádóó E’e’aahjigo dashdiighááh. Ákwe’é iiná silá.
Áádóó Nahookǫsjigo dashdiighááh. Ákwe’é sih hasin silá.
Ahéhee’.

I continued north on Highway 163, crossing into Utah and passing through Monument Valley; I was awed by the iconic landforms in the area.
Yeah, this one seems kind of 'normal'

As I continued past the water treatment facility at Halchita, I saw a pair of teal landing.  There is little water or marsh habitat in this desert, so I stopped and walked around the wastewater treatment pond to do a bit of birding.
Ducks in the Desert
Crossing the San Juan River at Mexican Hat, I eyed the willows and cottonwoods in the narrow riparian zone thinking that this looked like warbler habitat, and pulled into the parking lot for the Olde Bridge Grille.  As soon as I got out, I heard the song of a male Lucy’s Warbler, and the bird flew up to serenade me for 15 minutes!  This species was my “ABA Area” Life Bird Number 600, so this was a special stop for me.
Lucy's Warbler
Life Bird No. 600!
Finding the warbler at Mexican Hat obviated my need to travel to the remoteness of the Grand Staircase area, so I decided to visit the Natural Bridges National Monument instead, as I’d not been there, either.  Taking Highway 261, you can get some great views from the rim of Cedar Mesa.



"Go Home!  This Country Is Full"

En route, I passed yet another cattle drive.
Much of the West is Open Range
The entrance to the Monument goes through the Pinyon-Juniper habitat.
The Visitors’ Center had a small Native Plant walk, and the Rangers were very informative regarding the trails and sights to be seen in the Monument.

The Monument was the first in the State of Utah, and was designated by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1908.  There are three bridges in the “park”, given Hopi names of Kachina, Owachomo, and Sipapu.  The bridges were caused through the erosion over the aeons of the White River through the sandstone formations.


Much of these formations are composed of cross-bedded sand dunes that solidified.

I drove the auto tour route, and walked out to see Kachina Bridge, and then walked down to the banks of the White River under the Sipapu span.


I was really impressed with the Puebloan ruins above the river.




The peoples who lived here had it figured out.
Build your house under the cliff so you don't get rained on . . .
Living in a place with a water view.

Up on the cliff where the nasty raiding parties can’t get to you.  Just pull the ladder up behind you.
These trails are not ADA Compliant . . .
The trails go along some pretty steep areas, and hikers are warned of potential hazards.

Much of the soil in this desert area is protected by a layer of Cryptogamic soil.  These ‘biologic soil crusts’ are composed of cyanobacteria, lichens, mosses, algae, microfungi, and bacteria, which clump to help to hold things together like a woven mat.  These crusts are important to nature, in that they help stabilize, feed and water the soil, and minimize wind and water erosion.  It only takes one wrong step to crush the crust.  This single step will take years to heal - if ever.

I left the Monument, still working my way home, and made it as far as Salina, Utah this evening, checking into the Rodeway Inn for $44.96.

Kayenta Monument Valley Inn eBird Checklist is Here
Halchita Treatment Ponds eBird Checklist is Here
Mexican Hat eBird Checklist is Here
Natural Bridges National Monument eBird Checklist is Here

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