June 24 - Gettysburg National Military Park

I breakfasted at the Gettysburg Quality Inn, which consisted of the waffle machine, had scrambled eggs, sausage & bacon, yogurt, and coffee.  I’ve been staying at some ‘lower star’ establishments, so this was a pretty upscale meal for me.  Then I banged out a blog post.  Yes, yes . . . I realize that I’m currently at least a month tardy . . .

Today was more of a “history stop” rather than a birding day.  So, I drove out to the Gettysburg National Military Park at about 9:30.  I really enjoy reading history, and have read about the epic battle here for years.  Now that I’m in the vicinity, I took the advantage of seeing the field.

"The Valley of Death" - NPS Photo from 1913

I should have been here closer to opening time, as the lines were already long and building.

The Park is ostensibly run by the National Park Service, but entry to the museum, cyclorama and visitors’ Center does not accept the National Park Passes that allow entry into most of our National Parks, as it all appears to be run by the non-profit Gettysburg Foundation.  The ‘package’ cost is $15, and I spent another $35 to take a bus tour with a “licensed” guide.

The Cyclorama was pretty amazing.  They said “No Photos” there, so I’ll include a shot from the NPS web page.  This mural was painted in 1884.  Cycloramas were a very popular form of entertainment in the late 1800's, both in America and Europe.  These massive, oil-on-canvas paintings were displayed in special auditoriums and enhanced with landscaped foregrounds sometimes featuring trees, grasses, fences and even life-sized figures.  The result was a three-dimensional effect that surrounded viewers who stood on a central platform, literally placing them in the center of the great historic scene.

Painted by Paul Dominique Philippoteaux and first shown in Boston in 1884.

I spent the time before the bus tour at the museum.  This is one of the best museums I've seen at a National Park, and is rightfully described as " . . . a world-class museum that brings the past to life with one-of-a-kind artifacts, educational interactive exhibits and short films."

Walls of guns, for the gun aficionados . . . a friend of mine has a working replica of an 1851 Colt Navy pistol in the case on the left.

. . . and buttons and belt buckles for the others.

The tour bus was packed, but Kavin, a retired Army Colonel, did an outstanding job providing us with history, information and asides, and is obviously well-informed and well-experienced.  I've taken a lot of tours through the years, but was quite impressed with the quality of this one.  Well worth the $35.

Our first stop was at the North Carolina Monument on Seminary Ridge.  This was the Confederate Army's main battle line during those awful days in July, 1863.

  North Carolina provided 14,147 men to the Army of Northern Virginia at Gettysburg, the second largest state contingent after Virginia.  It lost over 6,000 casualties, more than a 40% casualty rate.  It was the largest number of casualties of any Confederate state and, as the monument states, over one fourth of all Confederate casualties in the Battle of Gettysburg.

Each of the Confederate Units' positions are identified and explained.

The other main stop was at Little Round Top.  This was the lynch-pin that held the field for the Union Army.

Devil's Den from Little Round Top

Looking back toward the town of Gettysburg from Little Round Top.  Monuments to the 155th Pennsylvania Volunteers and 146th New York Volunteer Infantry Regiment can be seen here.

It is apparent that Kavin lives for the History of Gettysburg!  The bronze statue below is that of Brigadier General Gouverneur Kemble Warren, standing on the boulder where he ordered a couple brigades to occupy the knoll - before the Confederates got there first!

The Battle of Gettysburg was the largest and deadliest battle of the American Civil War.  For three days, over 160,000 men fought for their competing visions of the country.  More than a quarter of these men were captured, wounded, or killed.  The survivors knew they had been through one of history’s great struggles, and many later returned to the Gettysburg battlefield to pass their memories on to future generations through messages in stone, bronze, and iron.  Gettysburg is really a huge outdoor classroom where over 1,200 monuments tell the stories of the people who fought here.  They certainly help us visitors explore one of the great turning points in American history.

The bus got back to the Visitors’ Center just before 3 p.m.  I spent a few moments, as I did through the day, reflecting on the terrific struggle here, and the social and political forces that sent otherwise reasonable persons into a place where Man could vent such atrocity on Man.  Thank goodness, we wouldn’t do such a thing to our fellow Human Beings in today’s America . . .

Looking across the battlefield toward Cemetery Ridge

I realize that it would require spending several days here to take in the museums, the auto tour route, and get the ‘full feel’ of the site, but I’ll leave that for another visit.

I grabbed a quick bite at the Park’s café as it began to rain, then gassed up the Subaru and headed toward Harrisburg, continued north and east out of Pennsylvania, across New Jersey on Interstate 80 to Fort Lee, then up Highway 9W to my cousin’s place.  Cousin Blythe and her husband Bob welcomed me, and we went out to supper at the Hinode Sushi restaurant, and had quite a good visit.

I did listen for birds at a few stops:

Gettysburg National Military Park eBird Checklist is Here

Gettysburg NMP - North Carolina Monument eBird Checklist is Here

Gettysburg NMP - Little Round Top eBird Checklist is Here

I'm always amazed that some people consider the Confederate Battle Flag to be Patriotic . . .