June 24 - Gettysburg National Military Park

I breakfasted at the Gettysburg Quality Inn, which consisted of the waffle machine, had scrambled eggs, sausage & bacon, yogurt, and coffee.  I’ve been staying at some ‘lower star’ establishments, so this was a pretty upscale meal for me.  Then I banged out a blog post.  Yes, yes . . . I realize that I’m currently at least a month tardy . . .

Today was more of a “history stop” rather than a birding day.  So, I drove out to the Gettysburg National Military Park at about 9:30.  I really enjoy reading history, and have read about the epic battle here for years.  Now that I’m in the vicinity, I took the advantage of seeing the field.

"The Valley of Death" - NPS Photo from 1913

I should have been here closer to opening time, as the lines were already long and building.

The Park is ostensibly run by the National Park Service, but entry to the museum, cyclorama and visitors’ Center does not accept the National Park Passes that allow entry into most of our National Parks, as it all appears to be run by the non-profit Gettysburg Foundation.  The ‘package’ cost is $15, and I spent another $35 to take a bus tour with a “licensed” guide.

The Cyclorama was pretty amazing.  They said “No Photos” there, so I’ll include a shot from the NPS web page.  This mural was painted in 1884.  Cycloramas were a very popular form of entertainment in the late 1800's, both in America and Europe.  These massive, oil-on-canvas paintings were displayed in special auditoriums and enhanced with landscaped foregrounds sometimes featuring trees, grasses, fences and even life-sized figures.  The result was a three-dimensional effect that surrounded viewers who stood on a central platform, literally placing them in the center of the great historic scene.

Painted by Paul Dominique Philippoteaux and first shown in Boston in 1884.

I spent the time before the bus tour at the museum.  This is one of the best museums I've seen at a National Park, and is rightfully described as " . . . a world-class museum that brings the past to life with one-of-a-kind artifacts, educational interactive exhibits and short films."

Walls of guns, for the gun aficionados . . . a friend of mine has a working replica of an 1851 Colt Navy pistol in the case on the left.

. . . and buttons and belt buckles for the others.

The tour bus was packed, but Kavin, a retired Army Colonel, did an outstanding job providing us with history, information and asides, and is obviously well-informed and well-experienced.  I've taken a lot of tours through the years, but was quite impressed with the quality of this one.  Well worth the $35.

Our first stop was at the North Carolina Monument on Seminary Ridge.  This was the Confederate Army's main battle line during those awful days in July, 1863.

  North Carolina provided 14,147 men to the Army of Northern Virginia at Gettysburg, the second largest state contingent after Virginia.  It lost over 6,000 casualties, more than a 40% casualty rate.  It was the largest number of casualties of any Confederate state and, as the monument states, over one fourth of all Confederate casualties in the Battle of Gettysburg.

Each of the Confederate Units' positions are identified and explained.

The other main stop was at Little Round Top.  This was the lynch-pin that held the field for the Union Army.

Devil's Den from Little Round Top

Looking back toward the town of Gettysburg from Little Round Top.  Monuments to the 155th Pennsylvania Volunteers and 146th New York Volunteer Infantry Regiment can be seen here.

It is apparent that Kavin lives for the History of Gettysburg!  The bronze statue below is that of Brigadier General Gouverneur Kemble Warren, standing on the boulder where he ordered a couple brigades to occupy the knoll - before the Confederates got there first!

The Battle of Gettysburg was the largest and deadliest battle of the American Civil War.  For three days, over 160,000 men fought for their competing visions of the country.  More than a quarter of these men were captured, wounded, or killed.  The survivors knew they had been through one of history’s great struggles, and many later returned to the Gettysburg battlefield to pass their memories on to future generations through messages in stone, bronze, and iron.  Gettysburg is really a huge outdoor classroom where over 1,200 monuments tell the stories of the people who fought here.  They certainly help us visitors explore one of the great turning points in American history.

The bus got back to the Visitors’ Center just before 3 p.m.  I spent a few moments, as I did through the day, reflecting on the terrific struggle here, and the social and political forces that sent otherwise reasonable persons into a place where Man could vent such atrocity on Man.  Thank goodness, we wouldn’t do such a thing to our fellow Human Beings in today’s America . . .

Looking across the battlefield toward Cemetery Ridge

I realize that it would require spending several days here to take in the museums, the auto tour route, and get the ‘full feel’ of the site, but I’ll leave that for another visit.

I grabbed a quick bite at the Park’s café as it began to rain, then gassed up the Subaru and headed toward Harrisburg, continued north and east out of Pennsylvania, across New Jersey on Interstate 80 to Fort Lee, then up Highway 9W to my cousin’s place.  Cousin Blythe and her husband Bob welcomed me, and we went out to supper at the Hinode Sushi restaurant, and had quite a good visit.

I did listen for birds at a few stops:

Gettysburg National Military Park eBird Checklist is Here

Gettysburg NMP - North Carolina Monument eBird Checklist is Here

Gettysburg NMP - Little Round Top eBird Checklist is Here

I'm always amazed that some people consider the Confederate Battle Flag to be Patriotic . . .

May 25 - Hatchie NWR and the Mississippi Delta

I woke at 5 a.m. to another humid 70º morning.  The 75 Starlings outside my door were singing their full ‘dawn song’.  I ate breakfast and left the motel, aiming toward Hatchie National Wildlife Refuge, where I hoped to find a Swainson’s Warbler.  Swainson’s would be a “Lifer” for me, and there appears to be good habitat there.  The Cornell Lab of Ornithology notes that the species preferentially “Breeds in southern forests with thick undergrowth, especially canebrakes and floodplain forests in lowlands.”

Cypress Swamps should count as "lowland forest"?

I arrived at the Refuge a little late in the morning, but thought it was still worth a try.  Driving to Hart Lake, which is an oxbow lake separated from the Hatchie River, I walked along the back roads to the fishing ramps.  I was unsuccessful in finding the Warbler, but enjoyed the morning.

Cardinal Redbird

Leaving the swamps, I stopped at the Refuge Headquarters, which are closed on the weekend.

The lake is not closed to this Green Heron

While scoping the lake, I met a young lady who asked “do you know the birds around here?”  I allowed as I knew some of them.  She was working on a school project for an outdoor education course, and needed to know what birds and animals are found on the lands.

This Just-fledged Bluebird came out to visit

I talked with her a bit, but she didn’t know her birds, so I turned her onto the eBird program, and suggested that she peruse the ‘Explore’ feature for Hatchie NWR, and see which birds are common, which are more rare, what seasons they arrive, and so forth.  She had no idea that such a resource was available, and was appreciative.

I wished her luck on her studies, and drove around O’Neal Lake, which is an impoundment near the HQ.

I scoped the water birds, but it had warmed up pretty well, and I didn't see or hear any of the target warblers.

Canada Goose brood

Leaving the Refuge, I cut south, stopping at Moscow, Tennessee to read the historical sign.

The Southerners seem to have put a lot of time, resources and energy into documenting and making public the battles of the Failed Cause.

One of the Confederate commanders at this site, Major General Stephen D. Lee, survived the putting down of the Rebellion, and became President of the Mississippi Agricultural and Mechanical College - now the Mississippi State University.

Lee made it to Lt. General before the Surrender

He was very active in both the United Confederate Veterans and in the Sons of Confederate Veterans.  General Lee believed a new generation would have to pick up the torch to tell the “true history of the War Between the States.”  Scary . . .

Driving into Mississippi, I checked out a reservoir area, Sardis Lake, buying a “Coke” (this was Mountain Dew…) at the bait shop at Wyatt Crossing.  The water was high and fishing was reportedly not all that good.  I dropped onto the Mississippi and Arkansas flat ground in the Delta country, where the roads were straight as an arrow.  I tried to imagine this country in the 1920s . . . maybe I read too much Faulkner?

And, the roadsides, vegetation, and entire houses were covered by “the vine that ate the South”.

Acres and Acres of Kudzu -

Pueraria sp.

I pulled into the Days Inn in Brinkley, Arkansas, where their sign advertised rooms for $61.  When she ran the card, the bill was for a $79 room plus tax for around $90.  Whatup?  Oh, we’re on “Holiday Rates”…. Uh, huh . . . .  I’d like to sell these nice people a loaf of bread.  $1.39 a loaf, except now that ol’ Orange-Hair put on tariffs, I’ll sell it to you for $2.19.  I was too tired to go shopping around for another room, but probably should have. 

Purple Martin houses are a common sight in the South

Hatchie NWR eBird Checklist is Here

O’Neal Lake eBird Checklist is Here

Sardis Lake eBird Checklist is Here