Monday, August 12, 2019

June 29-30 - New Hampshire


I got up early to write a blog page - you’ll notice that this one is over a month behind - then went down to eat breakfast at the Best Western.  Then, the fire alarm went off, as some bread burned in the toaster.

The Fire Department responded to turn off the exceedingly loud alarm, having sent the Lieutenant’s truck, a pumper truck, a ladder truck and an aid car.
How many firemen does it take to put out a toaster fire?
Well, that set my schedule back a little bit.  Can a retired guy really have a schedule?  In any event, I packed up the car and headed toward the Mount Osceola trail on the White Mountain National Forest.  I walked from the trailhead on Tripoli road to the top of Osceola Mountain.  The morning was overcast with showers, very little breeze, and 68° F.

I chose this hike, because a report on the eBird program had indicated that there was a possibility of finding a Bicknell’s Thrush, which would be a “Life Bird” for me. 

This species had been “split” from the Grey-cheeked Thrush in 1995, having formerly been treated as a subspecies of the Grey-cheeked until ornithologist Henri Ouellet studied the two populations and realized that they differed significantly in breeding range, voice, and certain body measurements. 


Mount Osceola is a 4,315 foot mountain located in Lincoln, New Hampshire in the White Mountains. It is one of 7 mountains in the Sandwich Range. The mountain is named after Osceola, who was a Seminole tribal leader of the early 1800s.  I’m not quite certain why a mountain in New Hampshire (or the city of Osceola, NY) are named for a Florida Native American . . .

The views from the summit are not 360 degrees, but still amazing with clear views of Mount Washington in the Northeast and most of the rest of the White Mountains. There used to be a fire lookout tower at the summit, but it had been removed in the 1970s. The summit is a large rock slab which is perfect to grab lunch or hang out on!

Though this hike is considered “easy to moderate”, it is my observation that the nice folks Out East have no concept of trail building using switchbacks to ameliorate walking up and down steep slopes, or for basic trail maintenance.
Steep and straight . . .
The New England Hiking web-page notes that “the connecting trail (between Mt. Osceola and East Mt. Osceola) is more difficult with rock scrambles and areas where a less experienced hiker will need to use their hands, feet (and sometimes butt) to get over and around the rocks). The most challenging part between the two mountains is known as The Chimney. It is almost vertical rock climbing, but there is a by-pass trail on the side of it to avoid the rocks.”
Yes, they consider this a "trail"
But aside from that, I really enjoyed the hike, as I’d never before spent time walking in the New England mountains, hearing the birds, enjoying the flowers, and getting to “elevation”.
A very vocal White-throated Sparrow
That said, I never did see or hear the Thrush, which is becoming one of this year’s “Nemesis Birds” for me.
I returned to the car, and made it into the town of Lincoln, NH, checking into the Franconia Notch Motel.  This is a charming little place along the banks of the Pemigewasset River, and was clean and comfortable.
Pink Lady's Slipper orchid
I got up Sunday morning around 5 a.m., and left the Motel around 7, going to breakfast at the Sunny Day Diner in Lincoln.  This is an old-fashioned diner that serves an excellent breakfast with huge portions for 1980s prices, and the place had really friendly wait staff.

I drove on up Highway 3 but made a quick stop at The Flume Gorge State Park, where a natural gorge extends 800 feet at the base of Mount Liberty.  Here was an American Redstart nesting in a tree in the parking lot.
Tail feather identification
I continued through Twin Mountain and back on Hwy 302 through Crawford Notch State Park.
I turned back north on Hwy 16 toward the Glen House and the Mount Washington Auto Route.  They have guided tours, but it only costs $31 to pass through the toll booth and make the 7½ mile drive to the top.  The fee includes a CD that explains what you’re seeing on the way up, and the interesting history of the road and community.

When I started, they reported that visibility from the top was only 100 feet.  But, I know that the weather changes from minute to minute in these mountains, so drove up anyway, and stopped to check out the forests before getting to the Krumholtz vegetation, which begins at about mile marker 4.

Again, my target was the Bicknell’s Thrush, but I once again ‘dipped’ on hearing or seeing it.  The Auto Tour folks offered guided tours for the Bicknell's earlier in the month, but I was back in North Carolina then.  I did hear the distinctive calls of the Winter Wren, serenading from the depths of the Balsam fir forest, which I ‘twitched’ as my ABA Life Bird No. 618.  It was a “Heard Only” bird, but I expect to see many more before I leave the Northeast woods.  The call is somewhat similar to that of our western Pacific Wren.
The sign says it all

Little soil, cold or hot, wet or dry - makes it hard for a plant to survive

On the way to the top, it was relatively clear.  But, by the time I got to the summit, another thunder cloud had blown in, and the rain and hail came down pretty hard.

The weather on this mountain can change quickly, and is renowned for its conditions.

The locals brag that the highest wind speed ever recorded was right here at the top of the peak - 231 mph in 1934.

I enjoyed the drive, and hopefully the next time I make it Out East, I’ll have the time (and still have the stamina) to take the hike to the top of Mount Washington.  I might even find the Thrush . . .
Don't ride your brakes . . .
On the way back down, I took a little side trail for a very short way, as these Eastern Hikers just drop their paths straight off a cliff face . . .
The trail beckons . . .
. . . then just drops off the face of the earth!
Leaving the mountain, I drove north, then east, finally making it to Walpole, Maine and the Hawks House Inn.  Steve Hawks met me and showed me my room, and recommended supper at the Coveside Restaurant on Christmas Cove.  I had just missed the afternoon’s music, but enjoyed a duck wings appetizer and supper of baked cod, washed down with a local beer.  I highly recommend this place if you’re ever in the area. 
Just pay attention to the condition of the trails when you're there

I had been greeted by Steve as soon as I drove up, made to feel like a returning friend rather than just a 'customer'.  The room was clean and comfortable, and I slept well.  Breakfast the next morning was like sitting in my Grandmother's kitchen, only the coffee was better! (Sorry, Grandma…)  I wish I had the time to stay for several nights, instead of just one.

Mount Osceola Trail uphill eBird Checklist is Here
Mount Osceola Trail downhill eBird Checklist is Here
Flume Gorge eBird Checklist is Here
Mt Washington Auto Road MP 4 eBird Checklist is Here
Mt Washington Lower Bald Spot eBird Checklist is Here

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