Sunday, October 17, 2021

November 22, 2019 - On a Dark Desert Highway

I was awake at 4:40 again, and tried to catch up on my way out-of-date Blog, but the internet was intermittent, so any updates will be put off for yet another day.  The restaurant across the street was scheduled to open at 7, but folks were going in at 6:30, so I went over to have breakfast.  $10-12 gets you a large portion, with drinkable coffee.

That done, I packed, checked out, and decided to go over to Salome’s Centennial Park to see what birds were in the area this morning.  I walked around the golf course and a ‘hiking trail’ through the desert scrub.  I had clear views of the Bell’s Sparrows, which were split off as a separate species from the more 'interior' Sagebrush Sparrow by the AOS back in 2013, but sadly couldn’t get any photos.  The “Coastal” (or, “Bell’s”) form of the old Sage Sparrow has an unstreaked, rather than streaked, back, while the interior has - amazingly - a streaked back.

I drove across to the Bill Williams River NWR, where the river enters the Lake Havasu reservoir of the heavily-damned Colorado River behind Parker Dam.  There is a cattail marsh at the confluence, where birders had recently reported Ridgway’s Rail.  This is another bird that had been determined to be a species separate from the Clapper Rail back in 2014, and one that I’d never seen nor heard.

I walked from the Visitors’ Center along the Delta Trail, hoping that the path would get close enough to the marsh for me to have a chance at the rails, but the trail stays up on the hill without approaching the marsh, and I did not hear or see this skulking species.  This was a good place to scope for ducks and grebes, and I got good views of both Clark's and Western Grebes.

I recommend this short hike; especially if you’ve been driving for a ways.  Returning to the parking area, I stopped to check out the desert tortoise habitat, but the reptile must have been hiding in his "man-made cave."

Next to the tortoise habitat is a "refugia" pond where desert pupfish (Cyprinodon macularius) are raised.  This species was listed as endangered in 1986, due to the loss and degradation of its habitat, so establishing such ‘captive’ populations is very important to their survival.


I also drove three miles up the auto tour road, but bird activity there was light this late in the afternoon, and off-road, there is little access to the marsh without pushing through mesquite thickets.  There were a few quail and wrens around.

I made a few miles in the afternoon, leaving the land of the saguaro cactus.

I ending up entering the little village of Nipton, California at dusk.  On a dark desert highway, in the shimmering light, I noted that the lodging place was called Hotel California.  My head grew heavy and my sight grew dim; I had to stop for the night.

I was checked in at the Magical Nipton Trading Post by “Mayor Jim”, and given Room Number 3 - the Clara Bow room.

 

I knew about Clara Bow from my interest in silent films.  My own family had a silent movie star, Margarita “Babe” Fisher, who was an aunt on my Dad’s side.  After talkies came out, many of the starlets didn’t make it.  Clara was said to have a high, squeaky voice and the ‘frenetic’ acting style that didn’t fit with the new format.  So, she and her husband Rex Bell bought a ranch and moved to the desert.  This was the closest railhead for Rex to drive his cattle for shipment.  Clara ostensibly stayed in Room 3 when she came to town for her fan mail.

I ate at the Whistle Stop Café restaurant and bar, which has burgers and ‘light fare’ along with several local brews.  I had their Amber, which wasn’t half bad!  The ‘crowd’ at the Café wasn’t too loud; I think most of the other hotel guests were “mellowed out” by the time I went to bed.

The town was bought by American Green, Inc. and its subsidiary CannaWake in September of 2018 and developed into a cannabis destination spot, but Nipton has once again been put up for sale as of 2021.  Sweet Dreams!

Salome Centennial Park eBird Checklist is Here

Bill Williams River NWR HQ eBird Checklist is Here

Bill Williams River NWR Planet Ranch Road eBird Checklist is Here

NB:  Interesting that on this date in 1963, the Right-wingers assassinated U.S. President John F. Kennedy.  Now, they’re in power.

 


 


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